Ramu valley magic

Ever wondered what it would be like to have a spectacular view of a mountain range from your backyard? Or better still see Mt Wilhelm, PNG’s highest peak, from the comfort of your verandah?
Such panoramas of PNG’s geographical landmarks are not easily accessible by most people. However, people living along the flat stretches and foothills of the Ramu valley are daily rewarded by spectacular ‘million dollar’ views.
On clear days, especially with the El Nino dry in the region, they are greeted each morning by the towering jagged peak of Mt Wilhelm, the highest mountain in PNG.
Few kilometres south, they marvel at a unique shaped Mt Otto sprouting like a huge mushroom in their backyard.
They also have a choice of the entire Bismarck range providing a daily backdrop while they go about their chores of raising cattle and gardening.
Most office workers would give anything for such picturesque views to substitute their boring office walls.
The traffic travelling through the valley to Lae, Madang or the Highlands also share this spectacular scenery, but only for brief moments as they hurry on to their destinations before nightfall.
The view in the Ramu Valley is alive and changes by the hour. In the morning the mountains are crystal clear, their details sharply illuminated by the light of dawn. As the day heats up, the view becomes hazy and the outlines of the mountains fade into the blue sky. After midday, the clouds began cluster around the highest peaks until they cover the top of the ranges.
The Ramu Valley is enclosed by two mountain ranges. They are the Finisterre towards Rai Coast and Bismarck, which is the gateway into the Highlands.
Fresh mountain breeze blow continuously through the valley floor rustling kilometres of kunai grass and cooling off the hot Madang sun. Few trees and shrubs dot the grassland as far as the eyes can see unlike the heavily forested mountain ranges.
The early route into the Ramu Valley from Madang has been through Rai Coast and over the Finisterre ranges. This is the route that the famous Russian naturalist and explorer Nikolai Mikluoho-Maclay had wanted to explore when he stayed at Bongu in1877. However, in his diary he wrote that attempts to get the people of Bongu to help him venture over the Finisterre were unsuccessful. The people regarded Maclay as a supernatural being, but that was not enough to convince them to risk travelling beyond the mountains and into the unknown. He never got to see the Ramu valley leaving the honor for explorers after him.
Pioneer missionary Fr William Ross used the route when he began his famous walk into the Western Highlands from Madang.
Today the highway out of Madang cuts through steep mountains into Begesin and Usino before dropping into the valley.
Most parts of the highway remain unsealed in the mountains despite a European Union funded project to upgrade and seal the road from 1998 to 2002. As a result, the mountain passes sometimes become inaccessible during rainy seasons. This has implications for a multi-million oil palm project planned in the valley. It means the terminal for the project will now have to be situated in Lae rather than Madang, causing the latter province to lose out on export revenue from a project in the province.
Travellers are well served with numerous little roadside markets selling roasted corn, fresh coconuts, watermelons, and betel nut. A bigger market at Usino junction sells a variety, which include fruits, vegetables and greens.
The long stretch of sealed road in the Ramu provides a smooth and enjoyable ride. However, drivers risk falling asleep on the wheel while driving at high speed. Fatal accidents have happened and travellers are warned to be careful. They can take regular breaks at roadside markets or refresh themselves at one of the many sparkling creeks that gush from the mountains into the Ramu River.
Unfortunately, armed hold-ups have also been experienced along the Madang Ramu highway section and travelers should always take precautions. Travelling in a convoy is a good way of discouraging hold-ups.
The Ramu Valley is suited for agriculture and cattle farms prosper for miles. Farms at Dumpu already provide fresh meat for supermarkets in Madang and other urban centres. Customers can also buy whole beasts at the farms.
Vast spaces of land are still available waiting for the time when government’s agriculture policies are translated into farmlands.
Ramu Sugar already prospers in the southern most part of the valley and there are plans for an oil palm project as well.
Settlers in the valley raise pigs, cattle, poultry, ducks and geese. The rivers are also reputed to hold gigantic catfish that can tear nets and the best way to catch them is by spearing them!
The Ramu nickel project is also in the area however its development is delayed as an investor is still being sought. If the project goes ahead it will bring a lot of changes into the mostly uninhabited area of the Madang Province.
The valley’s potential for commerce is immense and local tribes who foresee the benefits are currently fighting battles in court over land ownership.
If you have an opportunity to travel to or from Madang on the highway, take it. You will enjoy the experience and appreciate the country better.